Lisbon's Alfama, a Warm Neighborhood

Lisbon is considered by many to be the main port of entry to Europe.  A city steeped in history, it dates back to 1200 bc, when some believe the Phoenicians used it as a trading station. The city’s ancient name, Olisipo, may be derived from the Phoenician alis ubbo (“delightful little port”) or from the legend that the city’s founder was Ulysses. Whatever the city’s origins, Lisbon’s arrival and departure point, the River Tagus (Rio Tejo in Portuguese) is a part of the city’s identity and its link with the Atlantic. On the Right Bank of its large estuary, the “city of seven hills” gracefully cascades down the hill of the Castle of St. George (São Jorge). Lisbon flows along the riverside and floods into the interior, in perfect harmony with the environment and landscape, along natural courses that have been formed by the passage of time.

On one of Lisbon’s seven hills lies Alfama, the oldest part of the city, where narrow, winding streets crowd down to the river amidst a jumble of houses. Most buildings in Alfama are of Moorish origin, based on a heritage of 433 years of occupation in the 8^th century. But Alfama is more than just old houses and winding streets. Alfama is the warmth of its inhabitants. Poets, writers, musicians, artists and intellectuals make this colorful quarter special and typically representative of old Lisbon. Although Lisbon has grown into a modern European capital, with fancy cars, efficient subways, trend,y fashionable and expensive boutiques and all the conveniences, Alfama has retained its unique character. There, people still take the time to say hello to each other. Life has a slower, more pleasant pace. Grandmothers crochet quilts for their grandchildren, people stroll along the narrow streets and stop for a bica (a Portuguese espresso) and read the paper, or simply choose fresh fruits and vegetables from the local market or greengrocer.

Alfama, in so many ways, reminds one of Greenwich Village. Before being part of a large city, it is a community. Now diners can find a little slice of Alfama in the heart of the West Village in New York.

Alfama, fine Portuguese cuisine is located in the West Village at 551 Hudson Street, corner of Perry Street. The restaurant can accommodate up to 50 people indoors and up to 26 at its sidewalk café. All major credit cards accepted. Open for lunch Monday through Saturday and Sunday brunch from 12 to 3 p.m. Dinner is served from 6 to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday and is extended until midnight on Friday and Saturday. On Sunday, dinner starts at 5 PM and is served until 11 p.m. Corporate luncheons and private functions can be arranged by booking in advance. Live performances take place on Wednesdays (Fado music) and Thursdays (Jazz) from 8 to 10:30 pm. For reservations, please call 212/645-2500 or visit Alfama's web site at www.alfamarestaurant.com.