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The Iberian Nights: A Light, Breezy Tale
(Page 2 of 2)
Most of the wines in our tasting, and 8 of our top 10, were 2002's. It
makes sense to drink wines like these only in their youth, and I would
not buy anything older than a 2002 this spring or summer. Yet this does
not mean that a few more years of age will harm them. In fact, age can
give some bottles a mellow, nutty flavor. But I would suggest buying a
young bottle and aging it yourself if you have a cool storage place,
rather than buying an older bottle in a shop that might not pay much
attention to albariño storage.
Albariño producers are certainly not household names, but the
best-known label to many Americans, Martin Códax, was not in our
tasting. Códax apparently lost its American importer and has not
reached an agreement with another one, so you are not likely to find
anymore for now. Sharp-eyed wine lovers might point out that our No. 10
albariño, Burgans, is an entry-level label owned by Martin Códax, but
it is a 2001, clearly a leftover, which still showed well. For Martin
Códax, there's always next spring. Tasting Report: Albariños to the Spanish, Alvarinhos to the Portuguese
BEST VALUE:
Portal do Fidalgo Portugal 2002
$10
***
Succulent, vivacious and pure, lively and complex. The kind of wine you
want to keep drinking, from a new consortium of growers.
Laxas Rías Baixas 2002
$15
***
Big, yet acidic enough to feel fresh and lively, with aromas of flowers and peaches and a creamy texture.
Casal Caeiro Rías Baixas 2002
$15
***
Dense and substantial, with lush aromas of pineapple and honey and crisp flavors that linger in the mouth.
Pablo Padin Rías Baixas Segrel 2002
$14
***
Gorgeous fragrances of nuts, flowers and peaches. Both fruity and steely in the mouth, courtesy of fine acidity.
Terras Gauda Abadia de San Campio Rías Baixas 2002
$16
** 1/2
Deep and substantial, almost like a viognier, with rich aromas of lemons, pears and flowers. Complex, persistent flavors.
Torre Fornelos Rías Baixas 2002
$14
** 1/2
Juicy and inviting, with pure, clear flavors of peaches and apricots. Not complex but delicious.
Granbazan Rías Baixas 2002
$18
** 1/2
Flavors of flowers and minerals, with lively acidity. Nice as an aperitif.
Nora Rías Baixas 2002
$15
** 1/2
Pleasant and fresh with a slender texture, good acidity and lively citrus and mineral flavors.
Quinta do Dorado vinho verde Portugal 2001
$20
**
Unusual in that oak aging is evident, yet it is restrained, adding a creamy texture and a slight sweetness.
Burgans Rías Baixas 2001
$12
**
Snappy and tangy with citrus and peach flavors. Drink well chilled.
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