In a City With So Many Restaurants, Alfama, Fine Portuguese Cuisine Makes Its Mark

Operating in a beautifully restored landmark space in Greenwich Village, Alfama is the quintessential definition of Portuguese cuisine. The brainchild of Miguel Jerónimo, a former Portuguese diplomat, and Tarcísio Costa, a marketing communications and public relations professional, Alfama is a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation of authentic Portuguese cooking.

"New York needed a restaurant that is truly representative of Portuguese cuisine" said Jerónimo. "and that would become a destination in and of itself." And his partner Costa agrees. "The authenticity was very important to both of us. That's why we have an all-Portuguese wine list and the space is reflective of Portugal in every possible way - the design and décor, the art works, the Portuguese-speaking staff and most importantly, Portuguese chefs!"

Since opening Alfama in December 1999, Jerónimo and Costa and an enthusiastic team of restaurant professionals have been slowly, but effectively changing the misconceptions about Portuguese cuisine. One of the most frequently asked questions is if Portuguese cooking is not the same as Spanish. Although a neighboring country to Spain, Portugal definitely has its own identity, right down to what goes on the dinner table. The simplicity and freshness of its ingredients are the essence of Portuguese cuisine: hearty vegetables, wholesome breads, fresh seafood, and the finest of olive oils.

A meal at Alfama begins with classic appetizers such as Amêijoas à Algarvia (Steamed clams with wine, chouriço, tomato, garlic and cilantro served in a Cataplana), Polvo à Lagareiro (Grilled octopus with roasted vegetables and marinated black olives), or Chouriço Assado com Aguardente (Portuguese suasage flambée tableside with 'aguardente'). The main courses at Alfama are simply prepared; yet the layering of flavors and textures creates a bold, complex cuisine: Pargo com Amêijoas e Coentros (Red Snapper fillet with clams and cilantro served over a potato pancake), Mariscada Alfama (a rich stew of lobster, shrimp, squid, clams, mussels, monkfish and potatoes in a tomato wine sauce served in a cataplana), Açorda com gambas (pronounced ah-sore-dah, a delicate blend of different types of seafood in a lemon shellfish bread pudding, served with tiger prawns and cilantro sauce).

Codfish, a national staple, can be prepared in literally hundreds of ways: baked, broiled, fried, roasted or boiled, with a variety of accompaniments and garnishes; and as common knowledge has it, "there are more codfish dish recipes than there are days in a year." At Alfama, the choices are Bacalhau Espiritual (a velvety gratin of codfish with shrimp and cheese), Bacalhau Assado à Portuguesa (roasted codfish with salt roasted potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and onions) and Bacalhau à Morgado (sautéed salt cod with a bacon-wrapped tiger prawn served with a cream of spinach and sautéed potatoes).

To end the feast, a selection of Portuguese cheeses (also available as an appetizer), from sheep and goats that graze the mountains of northern Portugal to the vast plains of Alentejo, to the areas surrounding Lisbon. Creative and tantalizing desserts add a sweet touch to the dining experience: Creme Queimado (Crème brulée with Port wine), Pudim de Leite com Lima (milk pudding with lime zest) and a mouth watering Pudim de Castanhas com Sorbet de Laranja (Chestnut pudding over a ginger biscuit in a warm grape sauce and served with an orange sorbet).

Alfama, fine Portuguese cuisine is located in the West Village at 551 Hudson Street, corner of Perry Street. The restaurant can accommodate up to 50 people indoors and up to 26 at its sidewalk café. All major credit cards accepted. Open for lunch Monday through Saturday and Sunday brunch from 12 to 3 p.m. Dinner is served from 6 to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday and is extended until midnight on Friday and Saturday. On Sunday, dinner starts at 5 PM and is served until 11 p.m. Corporate luncheons and private functions can be arranged by booking in advance. Live performances take place on Wednesdays (Fado music) and Thursdays (Jazz) from 8 to 10:30 pm. For reservations, please call 212/645-2500 or visit Alfama's web site at www.alfamarestaurant.com.